Arrival at the park at 5:00 pm at September 30. Arrival at the Backcountry Office at 5:54 pm. It has already been closed since 5:00 pm, reopens at 8:00 am at October 1st.

No permission for any trails possible. Start at 5:50 am at October 1st with the sunrise. One have to be very fit to start this descent. There are many stones in diverse sizes lying on the way. I get on more slowly than I had meant. I have 4 bottles of ¼ gallon Gatorade with me. And 3 pounds of apples. And seven slices of dry bread.

I don’t stop at the arranged rest places but follow my own rhythm. I've learned the water places by heart: Indian Gardens, Phantom Ranch, Cottonwood Campground, a private house approx. two miles after Cottonwood, a WC a few miles before destination.

Until Indian Gardens I didn’t drink anything so far. At this time I considered that four litres are might be too much. Later it was clear that two litres are quite enough, by using the existing water places for filling the bottles up. But one should always have reserves because a water place can be defect sometimes, or another hiker can have a lack of water.

The existing Creeks may not be used as drinking water. The water is not good. I filled up water from a side stream of the Bright Angel Creek for an external refreshing and got rash of it.

After the half descent, at Indian Gardens, I’ve already got a weak pain in my calves and feet. At the Colorado River I didn’t have the desire to take the time for a short foot bath. Without stopping I hiked to the Phantom Ranch and to the Bright Angel Creek.

Someone tried to get water out of it there but he couldn’t reach the creek. Further there is a place, where I got a bottle for myself. Meanwhile the Gatorade became too sweet for me. I use the water only to rinse my mouth or to cool me outwardly.

The way at the Bright Angel Creek was shaded from time to time. But now there was the desert. Completely unspectacular it started with an oasis. But the Trail ended suddenly. I went back and looked for the correct way. There was only a drained river bed filled with lots of round stones. Let’s go on. A trampling path of depressed plants leaded directly into the oasis. I followed it and came to a mud path with a few flat stones which had been put down on it.

Over there I met a hiker who confirmed that I was on the correct way (again). The desert is hot and there is no shadow. The only shady place is under an enormous stone (approx. ten feet long and three feet high) which is prevented from following the force of gravity only by a few, in my opinion much too small, stones. It was occupied by a group of hikers with the destination Cottonwood and therefore they had all the time to wait for the sunset.

I had to proceed. The afternoon sun burned pitilessly. The group said to me that it would be only a short distance of approx. two miles to Cottonwood. I was just a few yards gone when I heard them laughing. I understood at once. The indicated distance might have been correct. But to Cottonwood it leads through the desert and at now without any shadow and still twice highly uphill. What I hate because it is so completely useless, when it goes down to the same level again.

In front of a branching to the Ribbon Falls is a sign in considerable distance, which says that in case of flood one has to use the bridge on the way to the falls. That was all what was shown. What I do not know and also cannot see: The way to the falls goes back again on the opposite side and - although it out-looks in such a way, as if the brook was not reachable – in place the bank is accessible by a hidden stonewall of three feet heighth built like stirs.

A few yards ahead the bridge is a junction. Straight forward it goes to the falls and to Cottonwood is to the right. At the junction I met a couple, who wants to go to Cottonwood, however they walk into the desert in direction to the Phantom Ranch.

I can clear that up fortunately and so they had only a few yards back. Also a possibility to run out of water.

Short time later they know the way again and tell me that Cottonwood is no longer far. It is "actually visable". Now, I do not see anything and they relate their statement, that it lies "behind the rock over there ". I do not know, what they mean. Then afterwards it was about a mile, what can be very much in the desert. In Cottonwood I fill up my meanwhile three empty Gatorade bottles with water.

In the meantime it is recognizable that my time becomes scarce. With same speed it fail to reach the North Rim before sunset. Due to the situation with the Permits - For overnight stays I have to have a permit, otherwise I must be out till sunset - I begin to lie purposefully at the question for my destination. Mostly I answer with Cottonwood. But that also turns out as dangerous. One entangles me into a discussion over how it succeeded to me, to receive my Permit. And I do not even know the procedure for it. It turned out well, but it may not happen to me again.

In the Cottonwood Campground many said good-bye to me with "see you later". I answer always honest with "bye". I ignore the strange faces and abscond as fast as possible.

At 6⁰⁰ pm I passed a hut with a public loo. I ask the owner, whether I may wait therein for the sunrise. He asks me for my Permit, which I do not have however. Because of the wild animals I felt I must stay at a secure place. Well. He means, I could do it in 2-3 hours to North Rim. However at 7⁰⁰ pm it is stick dark. That much I already know. And there is no moon. The small sickle comes up not until 3⁰⁰ o'clock in the morning. Therefore I set off again.

His property has a second exit. He and his wife suddenly stood besides me. He asks me, whether I would have a flashlight. I negate. So he gives one to me, which I shall deliver in the Backcountry Office at the North Rim. I promise that.

I hike still another hour, in the meantime it is comfortable and I advance well. This phase should stand. In the morning the sun already burns ½ hour after sunrise. It knows no mercy. I consider and decide, to stay overnight because of the wild animals on the way. I throw my left over food off the way, for not to attract animals unnecessarily. There is no sign about that, but garbage such as packing material nobody throws away here. I put the garbage into the fourth Gatorade bottle, which I dump for this purpose - still over half-full. I rinse the edge and the cover out with drinking water.

Some miles later I lay down for sleeping on the Trail. I have only a sleeping bag. I huddle on it with my head ahead. The advantage is that no small animals or insects can approach to my head. However I can see nothing more. And the trail is approx.five feet wide and rather steep at the mountain side as well as at the edge to the valley . I use the backpack as a pillow. After approx.. four hours awake I up, because it is extremely cold. And I also begin to sneeze. So I continue hiking to warm me up.

So I find out that there are also places with no wind. But I find none, where I could also lie down. Then I find a place with a recess in a windy place, into that I fit exactly. I wake up by approaching steps. Hiding is senseless, thus I surrender into my fate, that I flew up. The other one sees me and apologizes immediately. I answer, that it does not matters and whether he comes past. And he is already gone. Since the next can come at any time, I set off again. In the meantime I’m losing energy. The same ascent as problem-free trained before, nevertheless makes problems now after a footpath of seventeen miles. So I arrive as late as 10³⁰ am. Again I am asked, from where I would come.

The only plausible answer that no Permit requires, is, that I started early from the North Rim, in order to photograph the sunrise. That is believed without exception. My backpack does not fit however the excuse so completely, so that one means, I’d better carry an ape.

Two days of stay to cure my muscle ache and my feet. No special occurrences, I sleep outsides in used manners. It is also forbidden here, however no one takes notice.

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